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Panel E
10.Standpipe or
laundry tub drain system:
Open yellow clamp and
slide over “hook” end of
drain hose to secure the
rigid and corrugated
sections together.
Floor drain system: Do
Not install “hook” end of drain hose to
corrugated section. Consult your
plumber for proper installation.
11.If you have room to work from
either side of the washer/dryer, move
washer/dryer close to final position so
you can easily complete the following
steps. (Go to Step 12.)
If you are working in a closet or
recessed area, move the washer/dryer
into final position and remove
cardboard or hardboard from under
washer/dryer. Remove the access
panel by removing three Phillips-head
screws and one bumper, located at the
top of the access panel. Set panel,
screws and bumper aside. Complete
the following steps through the access
area.
12.Put “hook” end of drain hose
into laundry tub or standpipe. Check for
proper length of drain hose.
Slide washer/dryer onto cardboard or
hardboard before moving across floor to
avoid damaging floor covering.
Numbers
correspond
to steps.
Pull shipping strap
with 2 cotterpins
completely out of
washer.
11. 20. 28.
15.
6. 23. 30.
21. 22.
7.
9.
14.
8.
4. 18. 19.
7.
10.
12. 19.
13 . Before attaching water inlet
hoses, run water through both faucets
into a bucket. This will get rid of particles
in water lines that might clog hoses.
Mark which is the hot water faucet.
Replace inlet hoses after 5 years of use
to reduce the risk of hose failure. Inspect
and replace inlet hoses if bulges, kinks,
cuts, wear, or leaks are found. When
replacing your inlet hoses, mark the
date of replacement on the label with a
permanent marker.
14 . Attach bottom inlet hose (inlet
marked “H”) to hot water faucet.
Attach top inlet hose (inlet marked “C”)
to cold water faucet. Tighten couplings
to the faucets by hand. Use pliers to
make final two-thirds turn.
Move washer/dryer to its permanent
location. Remove
cardboard/hardboard from under
washer/dryer.
15 . Carefully move the
washer/dryer into final position.Tilt
washer/dryer forward raising back legs
1 inch off of floor to adjust rear, self-
leveling legs. Gently lower washer/dryer
to floor. Check levelness of the
washer/dryer by placing a carpenter’s
level on top of the washer, first side to
side; then front to back. If washer/dryer
is not level, check that rear leveling legs
move up and down freely. If washer/
dryer is level, go to Step 17.
Insert corner posts 6 inches
from left leg. Do Not insert
corner posts in the center of
the washer/dryer.
16 . If washer/dryer is not level,
carefully tilt washer/dryer backward
until front of washer/dryer is 3-4 inches
off of floor. Insert 4 corner posts under
washer/dryer about 6 inches from the
left leg. Loosen nuts on each front leg.
Adjust the front legs up or down. Tilt
washer/dryer backward and remove
corner posts. Gently lower the
washer/dryer to the floor. Repeat Step
15 and 16 until washer/dryer is level.
17 . When washer/dryer is level,
use adjustable wrench to turn nuts on
front legs up tightly against
washer/dryer base. If nuts are not tight
against washer/dryer base, the
washer/dryer may vibrate.
Secure the drain hose to the laundry
tub or standpipe with the shipping strap
removed from the back of the washer.
18.After shipping strap has been
removed (Step 4), look for the words
“cut here” marked on the shipping
strap, about 16 inches from plug end.
Cut the shipping strap at this mark. Pull
shipping strap out of the power supply
cord.
16"